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In this two-part video, our resident wildflower expert, Mike \"The Seed Man\" Lizotte, shows how to plant a wildflower meadow. Watch for tips preparing your land, sowing the seeds, and taking care of your planting as it grows and matures.\r\n1. Identify The Correct Planting Time For Your AreaFall is a perfect time to sow wildflower seeds. This timing follows the same approach as Mother Nature: wildflowers naturally drop their seeds in fall to take advantage of the freezing, thawing, and\/or extra moisture that winter delivers. This weather helps to crack open their hard, outer seed cases.Fall Planting Wildflower Seed in Colder Climates\r\nFall seeding is a good choice if you live in an area that experiences cold or freezing winters, and the ground freezes for more than 60 days. Though you have a shorter growing season, you\u2019ll get a jump start on spring growth, and should see color 2-4 weeks earlier than with spring planting.\r\nThe best strategy is to plant after at least one or two killing frosts. See our Frost Date Chart for frost dates in your area. You want to make sure that seeds lay dormant over the winter, and that there is no chance for germination. Yes, that\u2019s right\u2026You definitely don\u2019t want the seed to begin to sprout! Otherwise, those tiny wildflower shoots will simply die off as soon freezing temperatures arrive.\r\nIn cool climates, average ground temperatures for fall planting wildflower seeds need to be below 45 degrees. The biggest mistake people make with fall planting in cooler climates is sowing seed too soon. It takes time for soil temperatures to drop, even after air temperatures cool \u2013 especially if you\u2019ve had a warm summer. Soil cools down and warms up gradually, like a large body of water does. \r\nSee A Soil Temperature Map Here.\r\n\r\nFall Planting Wildflower Seed In Warmer Climates\r\n\r\n\r\nIn warmer climates, sowing wildflowers in fall allows you to take advantage of your rainy season and the natural precipitation that winter often brings to the warmest zones. Your seeds will also germinate in optimal temperatures for growth. Young plants that avoid early stress will develop into strong adult plants that are more resilient to stressful weather events in the future. (Spring plantings can be challenging in warm climates, where spring and summer heat requires lots of watering and can cause stress to young seedlings.)\r\nIf you live in a warm winter climate, you may choose to winter sow your wildflowers. Even though the ground doesn't freeze and harden, you can still take advantage of the dormant season by sowing seeds in January or February. You can expect your seed to germinate 2-4 weeks after planting. This is a great way to take advantage of the natural precipitation that winter often brings to the warmest zones.\r\nIf you live in a warm climate that experiences frosts, you can plant perennial wildflowers about 60-90 days before the first frost arrives.This will give perennials an opportunity to establish root systems that will endure over winter. Consult our Frost Date Chart for frost dates in your area.\r\nHave questions about getting the timing right? We're here to help! Contact Us.2. Preparation Is The Key To Success\r\nBetter preparation = more wildflowers! Use a tractor or rototiller, hand tools, solarization\/smothering, or organic herbicides to clear your soil of weeds, grasses, and other plants (roots and all), to make room for your wildflowers to grow and thrive.\r\nA note for climates with winter freeze: You should plan on working the soil to remove other plant life before the ground freezes. Ideally, you\u2019ll be sowing your wildflower seeds about 2-3 weeks after you\u2019ve tilled the planting site, after a few hard frosts. This schedule means that the seed will just lay dormant (sleeping) through the winter season and begin to germinate once the ground warms next spring.\r\n Why Is Soil Preparation Important?\r\nYour seeds will germinate better in a site without competing plants shading them out and stealing resources like nutrients and water.\r\nGrasses and weeds are vigorous growers that can out-compete wildflower seedlings, so removing them gives your wildflowers the best chance to thrive.\r\nSoil that has been loosened makes root growth much easier for thriving plants.\r\nSeeds need good contact with soil and plenty of sunlight to germinate and establish healthy roots.\r\nWithout the stress of competition early on, your young wildflowers will be better suited to compete with weeds and grasses that might try to grow back.\r\nWe don't recommend just throwing the seed out in the field or into grass; anyone who\u2019s tried scattering seed without removing other plants has been sorely disappointed when their wildflowers don\u2019t come up. \r\nFor details, see our helpful guide: 4 Ways To Prepare Your Site For Planting Wildflowers\r\n \r\nTips For Choosing A Site For Wildflowers\r\nYour soil is probably already perfect for wildflowers. The test is simple: If anything is growing in the area \u2014 even if it's just grasses or weeds \u2014 the area should support wildflowers without concern.\r\nWildflowers do not need fertilizer to grow well. Wildflowers, as we see on every roadside, are extremely adaptable and do well in poor soils. \r\nFull sun is a must for most wildflower varieties. Choose a sunny spot that receives 6+ hours of sun. (For areas with 4+ hours of sun, our Partial Shade Wildflower Seed Mix is a great option.)\r\nGood drainage is a requirement. Choose a place where water does not stand for longer than one hour after a rainfall. (For wet areas, try our Wet Area Wildflower Seed Mix.)\r\nTips For Choosing A Site For Your Wildflower Planting\r\nFull sun is a must. Choose a sunny spot with 6+ hours of sun. One exception is our Partial Shade Mixture, which only needs 4 hours of sun.\r\nSeed Man's Planting Tip: A minimum of 6 hours of sunlight is necessary for wildflowers to grow.\r\nYour soil is probably already perfect for wildflowers! Unless your soil is actually sterile, which is rare, it's recommended that you use your soil just as you find it. Wildflowers, as we see on every roadside, are extremely adaptable and do well in poor soils. Of course, if yours is heavy clay, you can till in sand or peat moss to loosen it. And if it's sandy, you can till in humus or compost to make it heavier and more moisture-retentive. But the test is simple: If anything is growing in the area \u2014 even if it's just grasses or weeds \u2014 the area should support wildflowers without concern.\r\nThe only absolute requirement is good drainage. Choose a place where water does not stand for longer than one hour after a rainfall.\r\nWildflowers do not demand fertilizer to grow well. Just take a look at the healthy wildflower plants found along most country roads - no one fertilizes there. Wildflowers are famous for growing in poor soils.\r\nSeed Man's Planting Tip: If you can grow weeds, you can grow wildflowers!\r\nPrepare Your Site: Better Soil Prep= More Flowers!Preparing the planting area is a task that many people tend to overlook or cut short. Maybe it\u2019s the thought of having to fire up the roto-tiller or work the ground with a spade for a few hours that doesn\u2019t appeal to most folks but trust us, it\u2019s the most critical step for success.\r\nNo matter if you\u2019re sowing 5 acres or 5 square feet, the more time you spend prepping the area before seeding, the better results you\u2019ll have.\r\nWhile we wish we could tell people to \"just throw the seed out in the field,\u201d we know that to be terrible advice. Anyone who\u2019s ever tried scattering seed without removing other plants has been sorely disappointed when their wildflowers don\u2019t come up.\r\nYou\u2019ll need to get rid of weeds, grasses, and other plants (roots and all) to make plenty of room for your wildflowers to grow and thrive. There\u2019s a set amount of water, nutrients, and sunlight available in every planting space and it\u2019s your job to remove any plants that will compete with your wildflowers before sowing your seeds.What could be a thick, lush planting of wildflowers will struggle to grow if it\u2019s left to compete with existing root structures in the soil. The better you prep the area, the more easily two very important things will happen:\r\nYour seeds will germinate quicker and stronger without competing plants shading them out and \u2018stealing\u2019 available food and water\r\nWithout the stress of competition early on, your young wildflowers will be better suited to compete with weeds and grasses that might try to grow back.\r\nSeed Man's Planting Tip: Take your time and be thorough. After your hard work is over, you'll get years of low-maintenance enjoyment from your planting!4 Ways To Clear The Ground Before Planting WildflowersWhile you have a few choices to consider around how to clear your soil, there are two factors that will help you to decide which one is the best for you: Size and Lead Time.\r\nSize: Large spaces are more apt to require equipment like rototillers (or even tractors if you're planting 1\/2 acre or more), while hand tools will be just fine for prepping small gardens and containers.\r\nLead Time: With a few weeks, a few months, or even an entire season ahead of your planting date, you may be able to prep your soil using labor-saving, cost-effective and\/or eco-friendly methods. Here are some soil prep approaches that work with different schedules:\r\nPlanting Immediately: If you're looking to sow your wildflower seeds within a week's time, you're usually limited to tilling or using hand tools to remove plant growth and existing roots. Some people rent or borrow equipment if they don't own it, while others are happy to prep their soil by hand to keep their planting budget-friendly.\r\nPlanting in 3 months: If you have a few months ahead of you, you can make use of natural herbicides and weed killers. This approach reduces physical labor, and also allows time for the chemicals to dissipate before they can do any harm to your wildflower planting. Alternately, this time frame means that the soil can be worked with a tiller or hand tools multiple times, allowing for weed seeds to be repeatedly brought to the top of the soil and killed off, diminishing their overall appearance in your meadow.\r\nPlanting in 6+ months: With a good amount of time to spare, you have the eco-friendly option of using plastic sheeting or other materials to kill off weeds by smothering them out. This technique is very effective, does not require much physical effort, and costs very little.\r\nRoto-tilling:\r\nFor larger areas, a rototiller can be used to break up the ground and soften the soil. These are often very affordable to rent if you don't own one. It's important to \"till\" only as deep as necessary to remove old roots. 4 to 6 inches deep should do the trick.\r\nThe deeper you till, the more dormant weed seeds you'll turn up near the surface where they can sprout along with your wildflowers. If your area has been an old field that has grown and seeded itself for years, expect plenty of weed seeds in the soil.\r\nIf you're tilling a lawn that's been mowed for years, chances are your weed seed count will be low. Careful rototilling works well for three reasons: It opens the soil and allows a \"soft\" space for emerging flower plants; It creates a good seedbed for germination and promotes good \"seed-to-soil\" contact; And, of course, it removes almost all the existing grasses and weeds which would otherwise compete with your seedlings.\r\nA very thorough approach for tilling is to plan to take 2-3 passes over the soil, all spaced a few weeks apart. The first tilling can be done at a depth of 4-6\u201d, with each consecutive tilling being done at a shallower depth. This allows you to intentionally bring weed seeds up, have them germinate, and then kill them off in your next tilling. Your first two passes will be aimed at cleaning weeds out of the soil, while the final pass is meant to correctly prep the soil for your upcoming planting.Solarization and Smothering:\r\nBoth of these methods are aimed at killing weeds by laying materials over your planting site.\r\nSolarizing Weeds: Lay clear plastic, like a painting drop cloth, over your soil. The sun will shine down on the plastic, trapping an excessive amount of heat and moisture underneath, which will kill any existing plant life.\r\nAn added benefit of solarization is that some weed seeds may be encouraged to germinate in the sunlight before the heat kills them off.\r\nSmothering Weeds: (also called 'occultation') Lay a heavy tarp, blanket, or sheets over the planting site for 4-6 weeks. This cuts plant life off from available sunlight and also introduces a whole lot of warmth. Weed seeds that germinate in darkness will sprout under the heavy fabric, but will then die off from lack of sunlight.\r\nAn added benefit of smothering is that it creates the perfect environment for earthworms and other soil life to eat the decaying plant growth and loosen up the soil.Hand Tools:\r\nFor a small area, the project is the same as preparing for a new vegetable garden, and a shovel or spade and rake is usually all that's needed.\r\nSimply dig out everything that's growing there, turn the soil, and rake the area flat and free from rocks and roots. (By the way, here's one advantage of meadow gardening over vegetable gardening. A few rocks and some uneven spots won't bother a wildflower planting, so there's usually less to do.)\r\nOld grass roots are especially important \u2014 be sure to remove them or they'll grow back along with your new wildflower plants. If necessary, use a pickaxe - or the smaller, handheld version called a mattock, or even a sharp spade.Natural Herbicides:\r\n\r\nThose who are really struggling to remove tough weeds may choose to turn to chemical applications. Organic (non-synthetic) herbicides are available at most hardware stores and garden centers. When working with any weed killer, gardeners should be aware that they are \u2018non-selective\u2019 which means that they will harm any broadleaf plant or tree that they make contact with. To prevent damaging the plants you\u2019ve chosen for your landscape, apply herbicides carefully on wind-free days.\r\nIf seeing grasses growing among your wildflowers is maddening to you, and you'd like to reach for a natural herbicide spray - be sure to choose one that is intended to control 'monocots', or single-blade plants (like grasses). Herbicides intended to kill 'dicots' (also called broadleaf plants) will likely kill off part of your intended planting.\r\nShop Regional Wildflower Seed MixesAll of the seed we carry at American Meadows is 100% pure, non-GMO, neonicotinoid-free, and guaranteed to grow.\r\n3. Scatter Your Wildflower Seeds\r\n Separate your seed into roughly two equal parts. Put each half into a bucket, bowl, bin, or large bag with plenty of extra room.\r\nMix sand & seeds. Add roughly eight parts dry sand to one part seed, and mix well. (For example: 8 cups sand to 1 cup seed.) Sand helps you spread seed more evenly, and since it is lighter than the soil, you'll be able to see where you've sown seeds. Always make sure that your sand is dry, especially if it has been stored outdoors. Wet sand has a tendency to clump and can cause your seed to be applied unevenly. If possible, starting with new sand helps prevent contamination.\r\nTest out your sowing technique. Your goal is to lay your seed down as evenly as possible, and you're likely to be surprised by how quickly it leaves your hand or the spreader. When using a seed spreader, always do a practice run first. This will help you get comfortable with sowing, by understanding how much seed comes out how fast.\r\nFor even application, scatter your seeds in two sowings. Take the first half of your seeds and sow them as evenly as possible, while walking across your site from north to south. Then take the other half and apply in a similar manner, this time walking in the opposite direction.\r\nHow Much Seed Do I Need?\r\nBe sure to use the right amount of seed as recommended for your mix or individual species - more seed does not always mean more blooms! While it may be very tempting to throw extra seed down, but this usually brings the opposite effect you were looking for. Seeds sown too densely can create competition among seedlings, causing them to become leggy or strangle one another out.\r\nOur guide shows how to calculate square footage in 3 easy steps: How Much Seed Do I Need? \r\nWildflower Seeds and Their Application Rates\r\nAfter timing, the most important consideration when seeding your site is to know and follow the application rate \u2013 meaning how much seed, by weight, should be placed over a square foot of soil.\r\nWhile it may be very tempting to throw some extra seed down, this usually brings the opposite effect you were looking for. Instead of more blooms and more color, you\u2019ll actually be packing young seedlings in so tight together, that they strangle one another out \u2013 leaving you with fewer flowers overall.\r\nAdditionally, those flowers that survive often become tall and spindly from struggling to reach for the sun through a thick patch of neighboring plants. Tall and spindly flowers have a hard time making it through the season, as their stems are often too fragile to withstand wind and rain.\r\nApplication rates are listed on seed packaging, as well as on our website.How to Scatter Seeds with a Seed Spreader or by Hand:\r\nAs soon as you\u2019ve given your soil a final \u2018roughing up\u2019, it\u2019s time to plant. Your goal is to scatter the seed evenly over the entire planting area. To make this as easy as possible, many people will use a plastic hand-crank seed spreader, which is commonly used for sowing grass seed.\r\nAnother option is to divide your seed into two equal parts. You\u2019ll then toss one portion of the seed over your planting area while walking back and forth in a north-to-south direction. Next, take the remaining portion, and sow those seeds while walking in an east-to-west direction.\r\nWhen scattering wildflowers by hand, it\u2019s really helpful to add dry \u2018play sand\u2019 or \u2018sandbox sand\u2019 to your seeds first. Other sands can absorb moisture and become wet, forming clumps with your seed and making it difficult to spread. The light color of the sand will allow you to see exactly where your seed has landed, which will alert you to bare spots and areas of uneven application.The Split & Sand Method \r\nSeparate the seed you're planting, no matter the amount, into roughly two equal parts. \r\nPut the first half in a clean bucket (or coffee can, or anything else handy)\r\nThen add in roughly eight parts of dry sand to one part of seed. (For example: 8 cups sand to 1 cup seed.) Always make sure that your sand is dry, especially if it has been stored outdoors. Wet sand has a tendency to clump and can cause your seed to be applied unevenly. If possible, starting with new sand can help prevent contamination.\r\nOnce you have the sand and seed evenly mixed in your bucket, test out your sowing technique. Your goal is to lay your seed down as evenly as possible, and you're likely to be surprised by how quickly it leaves your hand or the spreader.\r\nYou'll have the best chance of an even application if you scatter your seeds in two sowings. \r\nTake the container with one-half of your seeds and sow them as